I’ll admit it – my first Balkan love affair wasn’t with a city at all.
It wasn’t stunning architecture or beautiful coastlines that got me – it was Dr Kovac from vintage US hospital drama ER.
But fast forward ahem several years – and I booked a flight to Sarajevo, the capital of Bosnia & Herzegovina, in the hope that another Balkan love affair would begin.
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Sarajevo: An Affordable European City Break
Now I’ll be real – wanting an affordable city break was what had me booking Sarajevo in the first place.
My criteria were – a country I hadn’t visited before, flights for less than £100 return and low prices once I got there.
After a bit of Skyscanner action, Sarajevo came out on top.
Touchdown in Sarajevo
I landed one April evening on my £40 Ryanair flight from London, excited to be somewhere new… but less excited about my travel wardrobe.
My weather app had told me it would be around 12C during my trip, but I landed to about half that!
But never mind, I put on ALL of my layers, and headed out to explore!
I wandered through the Old Town (Baščaršija) under the glow of Eid lights, still up from the weekend before. I watched tourists eating pastries, locals sipping coffee and the local cats keeping them company.
It was uplifting, warm and welcoming – even in 6 degrees!
Oh and don’t sleep on sahlep – a warming drink with cinnamon. I first had it in Istanbul and was so happy to find it in Sarajevo too.
Where East meets West
I’d read a bunch of “East meets West” descriptions of Sarajevo before visiting, and I thought it sounded a bit twee. But actually? It was pretty spot on.
Plus, it’s even marked on the ground where the old city meets the new.
Sarajevo initially reminded me a bit of Istanbul – and not just because I was excited about the sahlep.
It’s another city where there’s a whole blend of architecture, religion and culture – and the resemblance had me surprised.
It didn’t feel like I was just a 3 hour flight from London.
In Sarajevo you’ll find Western European-style architecture next to Ottoman-era type buildings, and modern structures right up against historic ones.
The skyline is dotted with just as many mosque minarets as church spires, and there’s a mix of nations and cultures here in everything from the food to the architecture.
And it’s not just different empires that you see evidence of in Sarajevo today. You can also see the impact of the devastating siege which happened here in the 1990s.
From mortar shell scars on the buildings to the ‘roses’ on the ground – shell scars that have been filled with red resin – memories of the conflict are everywhere.
I can’t and won’t pretend to do justice to the history of this city here. I’ll just say – let your visit be an opportunity to learn more about it, from the people who lived through it.
The sights of Sarajevo
I’m used to picking a handful of attractions to see on a city break, because those entry fees really mount up!
But as Sarajevo is so affordable, I didn’t have to do that here.
I visited an Ottoman-era house which cost me about £2 – and I actually had to knock on the ticket office door so they could let me in to pay!
I also went to the War Childhood museum (£4.50), Gallery 11/07/95 (£5.50) and the Tunnel of Salvation (£9 – they only take local cash).
For the tunnel, I’d suggest looking for an organised tour, because by the time I’d hopped from a bus to a taxi and back, and paid entry, I think it would have cost about the same.
These are moving places that document recent conflicts – so bear in mind if you visit Sarajevo, engaging with contemporary history and events will be an inevitable part of your trip.
Sarajevo free walking tours
I did two free walking tours here – tipping both my guides at the end. First was a city-focused one with Adis, whose dry sense of humour kept our spirits high beneath our umbrellas.
Later I took a second one with Neno, who had lived through the siege as a child and explained the history with so much patience and generosity.
Sarajevo also held the Winter Olympics in 1984, something you still see evidence of in the city.
Whether you know Jane Torvill and Christopher Dean from their heyday as iceskaters or as hosts of the TV show Dancing on Ice, Sarajevo is where they won gold for their iconic dance, Bolero.
Sarajevo cable car
Something I did splash out on during my stay was the cable car, which was a £14 round trip. Locals don’t have to pay so much, but as a tourist, I was blessed to be subsiding that – and fair enough!
You can also take some easy day trips from Sarajevo – for example to the city of Mostar that’s a few hours by bus or train, or Kravice waterfalls (take your swimsuit if you go in summer!).
The prices in Sarajevo
The currency here is the Bosnian Convertible Mark (KM, or BAM) but a lot of places – though not all – will accept euros.
If you do have a few euros already, bring it with you to exchange here, because ATMs generally charge you to withdraw money.
A Bosnian coffee will cost you about £1.75 – or nothing at all if you get chatting to the locals. I got speaking to a native who had moved to the States and was back for a visit – he was keen to hear my impressions of the city as he puffed on his cigar.
As for dinner, you can get a plate of cevapi (meatballs) with bread and onions for under a fiver.
Accommodation was equally kind to my wallet. My centrally-located apartment (next to Sarajevo’s city brewery, which was handy) came in at €100 for two nights.
OK it’s not a steal, but it’s easily half what I’d expect to pay in other European capitals.
Suggested Sarajevo hotels
Budget:
Hotel Bistrik
Hotel Kandilj
Mid-range:
Hotel Story
Old Town Hotel
Treat:
Hotel Festival
Hotel Sana
Don’t be like me – for some reason I just assumed Bosnia & Herzegovina was in the Europe zone when it came to data roaming! But actually phone plans that include EU data as standard probably won’t include B&H. Grab yourself an e-sim to stay connected during your trip for less.
My Sarajevo highlights
My trip on the cable car turned out to be a bit of a treat. It was built for the 1984 Winter Olympics – you can ski up here! – but the April clouds and fog meant I didn’t quite get the panoramic views I was after.
However, it did mean I had a gondola all to myself, and it felt quite eerie skimming the tree tops in my own private pod, as my ears popped and added to that feeling of being completely removed from everything else.
At the top, I followed the old Olympic bobsleigh track through the forest. With the sound of the rain falling on the trees, it felt so surreal and calm, and of course it was pretty much deserted, thanks to the weather!
Further on I made a couple of friends – we took photos for each other and swapped numbers to meet up in the next town.
I also was really moved by the Sarajevo Tunnel Museum. During the siege, a tunnel under the airport was the only way that anything got in or out – for 4 years!
There’s a section of tunnel you can walk through and loads of information about what happened. It really stayed with me.
Sarajevo Is the Affordable City Break That’s Waiting for You!
So – Sarajevo might not be the first city that springs to mind when you’re scouting for a cheap city break – but it should be!
It’s affordable and welcoming, and you can do most things in a couple of days. It has a history that will move you and a spirit that really draws you in – and makes you want to return.
Whether you visit in winter all wrapped up and cosy (be warned, a denim jacket is not April attire!), or in summer when the sun warms the mountains and the city comes alive with its film festival, Sarajevo is an under-the-radar gem that will stay with you long after you’ve left.
